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Weeds.
The soil is full of weed seeds waiting for their chance and roots searching for an opportunity. They can't be eradicated without eradicating everything else, but they can be managed.
Perennials come up year after year. Dandelion, thistle and dock have long taproots which go deep into the ground.
Couch grass and bindweed have roots which will travel long distances to find space to grow.
Annuals grow, set seed and die in one season.
Within both categories are extremes. Brambles (blackberries which have got out of control) form tough shrubs. Chickweed grows and seeds so prolifically they feel more like perennials.
Take time to assess the site and clear any debris such as wooden frames and discarded glass.
Cut tall growth down to ground level. A petrol strimmer or brush cutter from a hire shop will make this easier.
Brambles send out tall arching stems some distance from the base. Where these touch the ground, they root and form a new plant. For a serious bramble problem, use a hedge trimmer to cut back the tall growth to get to the main clump.
Work slowly and use protective clothing, a stone spun up by a strimmer can cause serious injury.
Don't overdo it.
There is no need to clear the entire plot at once. Go as far as you can and then create a 'weedbreak' by securing carpet or plastic across the plot. A covered strip about 6ft wide should work well against bramble incursion.
Next steps
The options now are:
Or any combination of the above, for example:
Decide how much of the plot you will have time to look after. Be realistic, it's better to have more time to look after crops than not enough.
Cover the area which will not be cultivated this year with black plastic or similar and make sure it is well secured.
The area to be cultivated can now be covered with temporary covering such as cardboard, newspaper or straw. It will still need to be held down but netting pegged over the area should suffice.
Strong growers such as potatoes, marrows and sweetcorn can be grown through holes made in the mulch.
Which leaves just the areas for roots (other than potatoes) and the more delicate growers such as peas and onions. These areas can be double dug to clear the weeds. Let the ground settle for at least two weeks before sowing and hoe or dig out any regrowth.
Weeds will continue to grow and compete for water and nutrients.
Sow in straight rows so that it is easier to distinguish between weed seedlings and vegetable seedlings.
Hoe between the rows when the soil surface is dry. Keep the hoe sharp and leave the weeds on the surface to die off.
If the weeds get too large for hoeing, handpull or use a small fork to ease the weeds out.
Mulch around larger plants with a thick layer of grass clippings (do not use clippings if the lawn has been sprayed), straw or compost for hungry plants.
Dig out perennials with long taproots. Loosen the soil around the root with a fork and try and lift the entire plant out. If the root breaks it will regrow but the growth will be weaker. Fork out any new plants in the same way.
For perennials with travelling roots lift out as much of the root as possible. Any bit of root left behind will form a new plant so dig out any new growth with as much root as possible.
Never put the roots of perennial weeds or weeds in flower into the compost bin.